OC Register, Brad A. Johnson’s “75 Best Places to Eat in OC
The red leatherette booths, polished wood paneling and series of black-and-white photographs pay homage to the 1920s, when this place first opened. Most restaurants of that age survive on nostalgia alone, but A Restaurant continues to reinvent itself and remain not just relevant but also absolutely essential. Much of the credit lately goes to chef Jonathan Blackford, who has completely revitalized the kitchen in recent years. The steaks are superb, especially the prized Japanese Satsuma beef. People-watching in the bar is priceless.